In the early 1980s while hiking along Oakville’s southwestern ridge, H. William Harlan discovered an isolated territory. The hidden expanse—ancient and untamed—moved him deeply, but remained elusive until the Harlan family finally captured it in 2008. As the second generation explored and worked with the land, they began to make discoveries of their own. At the core of this wild terrain they found a powerful geologic convergence, which had shaped its steep, rugged topography, and created the conditions for an altogether exotic winegrowing environment. Over time they found that the dramatic landscape—just beyond the edge of the known—would slowly change them, and ultimately inspire a new endeavor: Promontory.
This is the newest project of Harlan Estate’s Bill Harlan. The 80-acres of land that includes vineyard parcels at 500 to 1,100 foot elevations. It is situated in rough country that is accessible only by a fire trail, and the vineyards are located up from and behind the vineyards of Dominus and Blankiet, thus qualifying as part of the Yountville appellation. The soils are primarily volcanic and sedimentary. Ever the perfectionist, Bill Harlan has already made six vintages, but has not yet decided when to release any of them, although it would appear from our discussions that 2009 will be the initial release of this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend. I think readers should plan on placing Promontory’s Proprietary Red in the same context as the Harlan Estate. Most Napa wine connoisseurs are certainly aware that Harlan Estate is one of Napa Valley’s most iconic wines, and a true first-growth if such a thing existed in Napa. One thing for sure, these wines will not be inexpensive, but the quality is extremely promising.
The 2012 Promontory, which is the softest vintage to date, was slightly better this year than last year, as it had rounded out. It does not have the depth of the 2013, but it is a great wine on its own merits. Notes of new saddle leather, loamy soil, and crushed rock intermingle with blackcurrants, plum, tobacco leaf and spice in a full-bodied, wonderfully pure and large-scaled style with ripe, well-integrated tannin. It is accessible enough to enjoy, and in spite of its massiveness, it is certainly capable of evolving beautifully for 30 or more years.
WA: 97
