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Pape Clément Blanc克萊蒙教皇堡白酒 Pessac-Léognan
特色

歐洲歷史上非常著名的教皇克萊蒙五世(Clément V)在葡萄酒的歷史上也相當有名。克萊蒙五世將教廷遷移到亞維農,因而促成了「教皇新城堡(Châteauneuf-du-Pape)」的出現,也間接促進了當地葡萄酒的發展。而出身波爾多當地名門望族的克萊蒙五世在1299年擔任波爾多大主教時,從他的家族獲得了一處莊園;1252年這裡就開闢了葡萄園,是波爾多現存歷史最悠久的葡萄園之一。由於克萊蒙五世的緣由,這個莊園就被命名為Château Pape Clément--克萊門教皇堡。


克萊門五世離開波爾多之後,這處莊園在之後幾百年都是教會的產業,在法國大革命時代被充公拍賣之後,它輾轉換過許多主人;目前本酒莊是在著名的葡萄酒業鉅子Bernard Magrez的掌管之下,並且聘請到了世界知名的釀酒師Michel Rolland擔任顧問,本酒莊的品質和知名度現在推升到可謂如日中天。1953年Graves產區的頂級酒莊(Grand Cru Classé de Graves)評等中,本酒莊的紅酒也被列於頂級酒莊之一。事實上,在Graves區裡本酒莊的表現被視為僅次於Haut-Brion和La Mission-Haut-Brion的第三把交椅。


本酒莊旗下現在擁有32.5公頃的葡萄園,葡萄都是以人工採收和去梗。其中30公頃種植的是紅品種:60% Cabernet Sauvignon和40% Merlot,平均樹齡30年,其中有不少也已經超過40年。高達40%的Merlot成份讓酒質顯得豐腴圓熟,再加上釀酒顧問Michel Rolland指導出來的釀酒方式,常常被酒評家評為享樂主義風格!


Rating : 91    Drink Date : 2021-2031


Bursting with aromas of grapefruit, gooseberry, tropical fruits and fresh bread, Pape Clément's 2019 Blanc is medium to full-bodied, bright and vibrant, its elegantly fleshy core of fruit animated by lively acids and chalky dry extract that lends pleasing grip to the finish. This is a seamless, refreshing Sauvignon-dominated (in percentage as well as personality) blend that is drinking well out of the gates. Though this derives from a warm terroir in a warm vintage, that's not especially evident, and this is far less unctuous and overtly oaky than was the case a decade ago. Equally, though it can't be faulted in terms of haut couture winemaking, the lack of yesteryear's pronounced signature reveals a wine that's just a little simple.

This 32.5-hectare estate is surrounded by the city of Bordeaux, not far from Haut-Brion. In the vineyards, farming is thoughtful, with Esca-infected vines counted and registered by tractor, and both horses and an electric tractor are employed to avoid compacting the soils—and to respect the neighboring dwellings. While the château isn't organic, the use of chemical products is kept to a minimum, and activity in the estate's beehives is monitored immediately after a treatment to verify that there hasn't been any adverse impact. Planted in red with roughly equal parts Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, and in white with roughly equal parts Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, Pape Clément produces some of Pessac-Léognan's richest, most dramatic wines, though recent years have seen a discreet turn toward a somewhat more restrained style, a shift especially obvious in the château's white wine: Merlot is picked a touch earlier than in the past; foudres and large-format oak barrels now supplement 225-liter barriques; and the percentage of new oak is more modest. The style remains, however, rather oaky and extracted—the aesthetic, in other words, of the early 2000s. With a talented technical team in place and a superb terroir that's beautifully maintained, I suspect that could easily change.


法國
Pape Clément White
2019
750ml
OK
WA:91
$4,950
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