Issue: 81
Tasting note: A beautifully layered nose reluctantly offers up a pretty if brooding array of plum, spice, game, earth and soft oak nuances. The supple yet punchy and overtly powerful broad-shouldered flavors possess excellent density while delivering first-rate persistence on the sappy finish that really firms up as it sits on the palate. Impressive, ageworthy and a bit less austere at this early stage than usual.