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Wine Advocate #204 Dec 2012 |
Antonio Galloni | 94 | Drink: 2017 - 2029 | $295-$400 (375) |
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The estate’s 2009 Proprietary Blend Melbury presents an intriguing combination of pure sensuality in its aromas and flavors, but backed up by serious tannins. Dark raspberry jam, flowers, sweet spices and crushed rocks all come to life in this deeply expressive, resonant wine. Sweet floral notes reappear on the finish, adding lift and perfume. In 2009, the Melbury is dazzling. It is also one of the more delicate wines in the lineup Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. I have been excited about the BOND 2009s since I first tasted them 18 months ago. My enthusiasm for those wines is surpassed only by the 2010s. The 2009s are sexy, radiant and impeccably polished, while the 2010s are more inward, structured and brooding in style. It is impossible not to compare BOND to Bill Harlan’s Harlan Estate. Although I am told the approach to farming and picking is identical in all the vineyards both estates look after, my sense is that the BOND wines are a little more vibrant than Harlan Estate, which tends to occupy a spot a little further out on the ripeness spectrum. It’s hard to know what more there is to say about BOND. These are simply some of the most utterly magnificent wines I have ever tasted, and a true testament that terroir not only exists in Napa Valley, but that these are some of the most privileged sites for making wine anywhere in the world. In my opinion, in top vintages, the St. Eden, which emerges from the red soils of Oakville, and the Vecina, from Vine Hill Ranch, are two of the greatest wines in Napa Valley. |
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