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eRobertParker.com #203 Nov 2012 |
Antonio Galloni | 96 | Drink: 2012 - 2018 | |
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Dried herbs, flowers, anise, hard candy, dried pears and apricots are some of the many notes that emerge from the NV Brut Blanc de Blancs Grand Cru Substance. Deep, sensual and totally beguiling, the Substance impresses for its sheer personality and richness. With time in the glass attractive streaks of tar, smoke and incense flesh out, giving the wine considerable muscle and a sense of pure gravitas that is utterly compelling. There is a level of richness and breadth that makes it hard to believe Substance is 100% Chardonnay, but much of that comes from the Solera method that incorporates vintages back to 1986. Substance is always one of the more eccentric wines in the range, but it is pure magic. Disgorgement date: October 5, 2011. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Despite all of the acclaim and recognition Anselme Selosse has received over the years, he continues to push the envelope of what Champagne is and can be. The new lieu-dit Champagnes, which now encompass six different bottlings – all of them multi-vintage blends – are off the charts, but frankly, so are the rest of the wines. Readers who want to learn more about Selosse might want to take a look at my recent videos on our site. Selosse fans might also want to consider a stay at Les Avizes, the hotel Anselme Selosse and his wife Corinne recently opened in Avize, which is probably the best way to visit this iconic producer. |
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