白馬堡位在St-Emilion區，但與Pomerol區的L’Evangile和La Conseillante堡僅有一條小路之隔，所釀之酒較有Pomerol區的風格，與本區的Ausone歐頌堡並列為聖艾美濃區的二寶。白馬堡有別於一般以Cabernet Sauvignon卡本內．蘇維翁品種為主的波爾多名廠，她反而是選擇了配角Cabernet Franc卡本內．弗蘭擔任調配的主原料，至今尚未有一家酒廠有這樣的創舉。奇妙的是這個原本色淺、早熟、單寧薄的Cabernet Franc卻在白馬堡發揮它最大的本事，讓一款又可年輕時享用，經過十年的陳年，酒體未老反而更集中，更有多層次的香氣與口感。礦物、異國香料、煙草香以及超熟的黑水果香是白馬堡的特色，她的與眾不同，就是最大的特色。
The 2004 Cheval Blanc has always been a wine that I felt needed patience on behalf of the wine lover, and so it is proving to be the case. Served blind I remarked upon a surprisingly Burgundy-like bouquet with ample red cherries, candied strawberry and redcurrant scents, the Merlot clearly more conspicuous than the Cabernet Franc, at least for now. The palate is medium-bodied with just a touch of coarseness on the entry. I appreciate the weight and balance here and belatedly the Cabernet Franc begins to express itself on the latter half, lending structure and grip, a dash of spice and a bit of sinew. Whilst it will never have the persistence of other vintages and regrettably continue to be dwarfed by the 2005, it remains a very fine Cheval Blanc from Pierre Lurton and his team.
WA:92 Drink Date: 2022 - 2050
